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SHAMPOO? CONDITIONER? BOTH? Which, When and How


Shampoo? Conditioner? Maybe a 2-in-1 product? Confused on the difference and which you should use? This week we are going to learn about the difference between these products, what they are for and how you should use them.



WHAT IS SHAMPOO?

Shampoo, it's kind of a funny word, isn't it? It's a fairly new word, entering English at around 1762 and derived from an earlier Hindi word, which in turn was derived from the Sanskrit word chapati meaning to press, knead, or soothe. The practice of shampooing dates back to ancient times and was historically made from various herbs. In the Philippines, that took the form of soaking and rubbing the bark of the gugo vine to produce a shampoo like substance. Gugo is still used as an ingredient in some hair tonics. Gugo, by the way, actually does have a number of properties that are great for healthy hair.


Early commercially produced and mass marketed shampoo products made some bold claims. One of the earliest such products, The Indian Medicated Vapour Bath, introduced in 1814 by an Indian surgeon and entrepreneur, claimed to be, "a cure to many diseases and giving full relief when everything else fails: particularly Rheumatic and paralytic, gout, stiff joints, old sprains, lame legs, aches and pains in the joints." Shampoo does not do any of this.


What it does do, is remove the build-up of sebum and dirt from the hair and scalp. It does this by combining two surfactants which are made of a polar head (hydrophilic) and a fatty chain (lipophilic). The fatty chain is attracted to soil, when applied it wraps around these soil molecules. The polar head is attracted to water, so as water is run through the lathered hair, the soil molecules are lifted away from the hair and scalp leaving it clean. Shampoos will often also include ingredients that help control static reducing, "fly-aways," or little hairs that stand up on their own. A side effect of shampoo is a reduction of moisture in the hair.


Shampoos can be formulated for a variety of goals and hair types. Many will promote hydration, strengthening, safe for color, and thickening. It's important to choose the right product for your hair type and goals. The hair stylists at Mel's Hair and Nail Salon can help you find the right product if you need help. Choosing the right shampoo is an important part of your aftercare routine following a rebond, Brazilian, or color treatment.



WHAT IS CONDITIONER?


Conditioner- not as fun to say as shampoo but if you're using shampoo, you need conditioner to secure and promote the health of your hair. While shampoo focuses on cleansing, conditioner restores and protects the hair. Conditioner delivers moisture back to the hair, it prevents dry ends, it strengthens the cuticle, softens the hair and reduces frizz.


Conditioners have been around for a while, with early versions being produced from various oils and herbs; one recipe from Renaissance Italy called for boiling dead lizards. One of the earliest commercially produced products was Rowland's Macassar Oil. It was primarily marketed towards men and claimed to promote hair growth (it doesn't). Macassar Oil was greasy and had a tendency to transfer to the back of chairs. Today, you may see cloths draped over the headrest of a chair, often on airplanes and busses. Those are antimacassar cloths and were originally developed to protect the chair from Macassar Oil.


Modern conditioners are much more effective. During shampooing, the molecules composing the keratin in the hair can gain a negative charge. When coated with positive charged ingredients in conditioner, the hair is protected with lubrication, resistant to clumping and resistant to frizz. A common problem people encounter following a rebond treatment is the appearance of frizz, proper conditioner use prevents this.


Just like shampoo, there are various conditioners formulated for different hair types and goals. It's important to choose one that matches your needs correctly. The hair stylists at Mel's Hair and Nail Salon can help you choose the right match if you need help. Proper conditioning is a vital part of your aftercare routine following a rebond, Brazilian, or color treatment. It's also important to be used whenever you are shampooing your hair as it will help protect and restore your hair from the negative impact of shampoo.



WHAT ARE 2-IN-1 PRODUCTS?

2-in-1 products combine both shampoo and conditioner in a single application. While this may be convenient, there's a catch. Trying to do both at the same time means doing neither well. The surfactants in shampoo and the oils in conditioner are not always fully compatible and may work against each other. If you have resilient hair and need a temporary easy solution, a 2-in-1 product might be ok. Prolonged use of 2-in-1 products aren't recommended, if you do use such a product you may need to add a clearing shampoo to prevent product build up which results in dry and limp hair.



HOW TO USE SHAMPOO AND CONDITIONER

To properly establish a good hair washing routine, you first need to consider your hair type. Oily hair types may require washing every 2-3 days, drier hair may need only 1-2 times per week. Excessive hair washing can strip your hair of its natural oils resulting in damage over time. The water type available also has an impact. Hard water contains minerals that may make it difficult to properly moisturize your hair and scalp. Washing your hair with hard water may result in damage over time - consider adding a clarifying shampoo or possibly a leave in conditioner product.


Step 1: Wet your hair, make sure your hair is fully wet. Lukewarm water is preferable.


Step 2: Apply shampoo. For short hair you only need a small dollop, shoulder length needs just a little more, and longer hair needs enough to cover your palm. Gently rub the shampoo onto your scalp, don't dig your nails in. The focus is to cover the scalp with shampoo, not the ends of your hair


Step 3: Rinse thoroughly. This should take at least 1-2 minutes. It's very important that you get all the shampoo out of your hair to avoid damage later. People with dry hair should use cold water as doing so will result in less drying of the sebum in your hair.


Step 4: Apply conditioner to the mid shaft of the hair down to the ends of your hair. Don't apply conditioner to your scalp or you may experience excess oil in your hair. Let the conditioner sit in your hair for the amount of time recommended on the bottle, usually somewhere between 2 and 7 minutes.


Step 5: Gently comb your hair with a wide toothed comb to ensure your hair doesn't become tangled.


Step 6: Rinse. Make sure you get all of the conditioner out and don't let it sit longer than the manufacturer's recommendation. Don't let the conditioner stay too long or it may leave residue behind that will damage the hair later.


Step 7: Towel dry your hair by gently patting it. A microfiber towel or even an old t-shirt can be effective for this. You want a soft and gentle material to avoid damage.


Remember, certain hair treatments, such as rebonds, Brazilians, and color have specific aftercare requirements that may impact your hair washing routine. Make sure to check with your stylist after such a treatment to avoid damage.


IN CONCLUSION

Shampoo focuses on cleansing; conditioner focuses on restoration and repair. If you are using shampoo you need to use conditioner. A variety of shampoos and conditioners are available so be sure to use the ones formulated for your hair type and goals. Proper shampoo and conditioner use is an essential part of your rebond, Brazilian, or color treatment after care. Be sure to check with your hair stylist to ensure your products and routine are correct for these treatments.








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